How to Explore Le Marais Paris in a Day
While my husband is tied up with business meetings all day, I decide to explore the Le Marais neighborhood of Paris. I enjoy walking and exploring, taking in the everyday life of these lucky Parisians. A quick Google search provides some suggested routes. I sketch a plan, grab a map, and go.
“The Marais is one of Paris’ oldest and most visually stunning quarters. First developed in the 12th century, the neighborhood, whose name means "swamp" in French and once was one, went from being a royal favorite under Henri IV and Louis XIII, to falling into ruin after the French Revolution of 1789. Since its revival in the 1960s, it has shone as a center of Parisian artistic and cultural life.” Courtney Traub, Trip Savvy. It’s all that and a bag of chips, folks. I spend hours meandering through little passageways, browsing in boutiques, and taking scads of pictures.
HISTORY & KILTS IN SAINT-PAUL VILLAGE
My first stop is Hotel de Sens. Previously a medieval residence, it is now an arts library. The gardens are quaint and quiet. Across the street is an elementary school. I hear wails and squeals from les jeunes étudiants but cannot see them because the wall around the playground is probably 20 feet tall. I pass a dude with tattooed legs, wearing a kilt, walking his dog. Excellent.
I pass an incredibly inconspicuous medieval fortress before dipping into a covered passageway off of Rue des Jardins Saint-Paul to enter a series of quiet, inter-connected courtyards that make up Saint-Paul Village. There are several artisan boutiques, antique shops, and obscure businesses along with a few small cafés. I buy a beautiful linen and two special ceramic cups as a gift for myself.
I leave the Village and walk down Rue Saint-Paul to the very busy Rue Saint-Antoine to visit the St. Paul-St. Louis Church. Commissioned by Louis XIII and completed by 1641, the Church is one of the oldest examples of Jesuit architecture in Paris. The Jesuit style features classical elements such as corinthian pillars and heavy ornamentation. It’s pretty spectacular inside and I find myself missing my art expert brother. There’s probably some very impressive art in here that I’m not fully appreciating. I light a candle, say a long prayer, enjoy the quiet, and leave.
EXPLORING WITH THE LOCALS IN PLACE DU MARCHE' SAINTE-CATHERINE
A few blocks away I stumble into Place du Marche’ Sainte-Catherine. It’s very sweet, very quaint with a few cafés, lots of folks hanging out, and some very nice shops. It’s the kind of place I’d like to sit and stay…a long while, but I don’t. I forge ahead to Hotel de Sully.
I walk through the reception to the courtyard, which shows off the neoclassical style of the hotel. There are Greek-inspired statues and twin sphinxes at the foot of the staircase. A few people are sitting on benches or steps enjoying their lunch and the company of their friends. I wonder if they have any idea how ridiculously beautiful their city is or if they are hardly aware of their surroundings anymore.
I walk straight across the orangerie into Place des Vosges. It is a gorgeous square with covered galleries and a park with a fountain in the middle. Again, shops and cafes line the galleries. Apparently, Victor Hugo’s house and the Picasso Museum are nearby.
CHOWING DOWN IN THE JEWISH QUARTER
I walk down Rue des Francs-Bourgeois, which is clearly a very popular shopping district. I buy a candle from Diptyque (a small one because it’s the only thing I can afford in that store!) and then walk down Rue des Rosiers into the historic Jewish quarter. This place is awesome! Very ethnic, very busy, very fun. Lots of people and cafés and shops and bakeries.
I buy Shawarma from L’as du Falafel. There is a line down the square for both their seated tables and the carryout window. Their claim of having “the best falafel in the world” just may be true. Walking. Eating falafel. Enjoying the scenery. I think this is my favorite sight all day!
GASPARD DE LA NUIT IS DINNER WITH 20 OF YOUR NEW BEST FRIENDS
I enjoyed the Marais so much that I take my husband back there that evening to see the Place des Vosges for an aperitif. We then walk to Rue des Tournelles to find Gaspard de la Nuit which has been recommended to me by a friend who is never wrong. It is a very small restaurant with mostly locals a very gracious proprietor. I order the duck confit which is delicious but my husband’s dinner is hands down the best thing I’ve ever tasted. It is a beef stew of sorts - so perfectly prepared that it is both crispy and tender. Unreal. Must go there if you’re ever in Marais.
With full tummies and hearts, we walk back across the Seine, past the Eiffel Tower, towards our hotel. The only thing better than exploring Marais by yourself, is enjoying it with your sweetheart.
